Quatre Pépins takes Vulcain's classic trio of apple, pear and quince and adds a fourth pip, Pinot Noir. The result is the boldest, most powerful cuvée in Jacques Perritaz's whole range. Expect an ethereal quince perfume, buttery pear, crisp apple and yeasty, fresh-cake and herbal notes. The palate is rich, barely sweet, with lively acidity and a fine, persistent mousse that lingers long. Fermented naturally with wild yeasts on high-stem Fribourg fruit, this dry 2022 vintage is Vulcain at its most ambitious...