L'Emprise is Lucas Rieffel’s Crémant cuvée, and it immediately stands out for its clearly stated vintage and meticulous ageing. Crémant d’Alsace is often treated as a budget-friendly option, simple and accessible. Here, Rieffel takes it seriously. The blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, two beautifully ripe grape varieties, vinified using organic farming methods, yields a sparkle of remarkable finesse.

The 2020 vintage, warm and sunny, brings roundness and fruit, whilst the traditional method and ageing on slats impart complexity and depth. The nose offers notes of brioche, fresh hazelnut, ripe pear and a slight floral touch. The palate is full-bodied and creamy, with a lovely tension on the finish that balances the whole. In magnum format, the wine develops more slowly and reveals itself as even more harmonious. A celebratory Crémant, to be opened for large gatherings, generous aperitifs or moments that deserve a touch of splendour...