Dió belongs to the Koppitsch estate's Fun Wines series, and it is the newest member of the family. The name is Hungarian for nut, a nod to the three old walnut trees standing guard in front of the Chardonnay vines at Neuberg, one of the oldest and most respected vineyard sites in Burgenland. Neuberg sits on a rocky limestone hill northwest of Neusiedl am See, part of the Leithaberg range, with soils that shift from scattered limestone fragments and schist to heavy, rich loam as the hills roll gently down toward the lake.

The blend brings together Chardonnay from vines planted in 2017 and Welschriesling from a much older plot dating back to 1990, in roughly a seventy-thirty split. Everything is processed by hand in the Koppitsch backyard, whole bunches pressed directly with no additives and no temperature control at any stage. The juice goes straight into large 2000-litre acacia barrels, racked before natural fermentation begins, and matures on gross lees for several months without fining or filtration.

The result is verdant, mineral and full of life, closer in feel to a chilled Grüner Veltliner than a typical Chardonnay. Wet stone and citrus zest meet fresh herbs, a little petrol edge and ripe tropical fruit, all carried on a lively, crunchy acidity. As with the rest of the Koppitsch range, how you drink it is entirely up to you, chilled hard or barely cool, shaken to bring out the lees or poured gently for a clearer glass. Either way, Dió is built for easy pleasure on a warm afternoon.