The title is a play on the French expression "jeu de main, jeu de vilain", horseplay leads to trouble, and together with Jus de Vin it makes up a two-cuvée wordplay that quietly anchors the Dhumes range. But where the name suggests mischief, the wine is all elegance.

Jus de Vilain is made from Gamay du Beaujolais, a clonal variety imported from the Beaujolais rather than the native Gamay d'Auvergne found in Minette. It grows on red clay soils in Chidrac, a contrast to the volcanic basalt and limestone of Corent where the estate's older vines sit. After roughly two weeks of maceration it is aged in tank, bright and fresh with plush fruit. No additions, no oak, no fining or filtration.

Where Jus de Vin is stolid and forthright, Jus de Vilain is fleet-footed, crystalline, yet retaining a certain endearing foxy bristle, as delicate as anything from the crus of the Beaujolais. It sits at the lighter, more approachable end of the Dhumes range, sitting below the structured weight of Minette but carrying the same integrity and the same refusal to intervene. A wine to open freely, serve slightly cool and drink without ceremony.