The producer context and the fictional family behind Gut Oggau are well established by now. Timotheus is the son of Mechthild and Bertholdi, the brother of Joschuari and Emmeram, and firmly placed among the parents' tier of the estate, meaning warmer vineyard sites, more direct sun exposure and wines with greater body and depth than the lighter, more energetic children's wines.

The blend of Grüner Veltliner and Weissburgunder comes from 40-year-old vines grown on limestone, slate and gravel soils above the village of Oggau. One third of the grapes ferment on skins for three weeks, adding grip, texture and savoury complexity, while the remaining two thirds are direct-pressed. The components are blended and aged for twelve months in used 500-litre barrels with no batonnage, no fining, no filtration and zero sulphur added.

The 2017 offers aromas of apple, peach and kombucha with medium-plus acidity. It is mineral and intense. Just like the caricature on the label, this is a big broad wine. White peaches, apricot and kiwi flavours are brilliantly knitted together with a moreish creamy, nutty texture. Some skin contact and maturation in large old oak barrels has provided body and a grounded, savoury depth that rewards patience. At 11.5% alcohol it sits lighter on its feet than some vintages, which only makes it more precise and drinkable. Eight years of bottle age have softened its edges and brought the quince, dried herb and mineral layers into focus. This is Timotheus in a thoughtful, contemplative mood. Decant briefly and take your time with it.